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  • Writer's pictureSusie Cramp

How to make an e-bike

For most people, a few kilometres and some sizeable hills stand in the way of a carbon-free commute. An e-bike solves that, with a saving of roughly 260g of CO2 emissions per kilometre, depending on how the bike is charged. And on top of that there's all the science indicating that cycling makes us both happier and healthier.


So where can I get an e-bike?


If you have a bit of cash to splash, easy. You can spend anything between £1800 and £6,000, for something shiny and ready to go. However, this requires making something brand new. Why do this when there is an endless supply of second-hand bikes just waiting for a makeover?


For roughly £300-£600 you can buy an e-bike conversion kit that contains everything you need to turn your old bike into an e-bike. We've recently converted two bikes using these kits, and it's super easy. Maybe this quick guide, to be used alongside the instructions in an e-bike conversion kit, inspires you to try one for yourself!


Step 1 Find an old bike

Make sure it still runs - especially gears and brakes. Try and get a bike with 26" wheels, as most of the motors for sale seem to be this size. A sturdy, steel frame is best so that it's plenty strong enough for the added weight of a battery and motor. Check the rear dropouts for rust and sturdiness, as extra power will be going through this part of the bike. Front suspension is also good, as you can go pretty fast on e-bikes and this will help take away some of the bumpiness.


Step 2 Order an e-bike conversion kit

Check local regulations for where you live to make sure this level of power is legal.


The kit will contain three parts:

- Battery: This is the energy source for the motor.

- Motor: This is within a wheel, and is the part of the kit which makes the wheels turn.

- Driver and peripherals: This is the 'brain' of the kit. It tells the motor what to do.


A good place to start is a kit with a 250W pedal-assisted motor. This means it has about 1/3 of a horse power motor, and will only run when pedalling at the same time. We've gone for a motor on the back wheel, as it's easier to steer and feels safer with the weight at the back. You can find these on Ebay; look up something like "26inch rear hub e-bike conversion kit 250W". This will set you back about £300-£600, so much much cheaper than buying one new. The cost of the kit will often correspond to the range of the bike, as it's the battery which is the most expensive part of the kit.


Step 3 Assembling the e-bike

Take off the back wheel. Put on the new wheel with the motor. Think about where to mount the battery - it can either sit on a rack at the back of the bike. The kits often include this rack. The battery can also be mounted where the water bottle holder goes. Next you need to think about where to put the driver. The driver is basically the brain of the e-bike. It connects everything to everything else. It takes information from the battery, the throttle and the brake switches, which tell the motor what to do. A good position for the driver would be somewhere above the bottom bracket, but this depends on your bike and your e-bike kit. The main thing is that all the wires need to be connected properly and without any strain. Make sure the driver and all the cabling is water and grit proof. Cable ties are great for neatly positioning and holding cables. Refer to instructions for mounting throttle, pedal sensor and brake switches, as this will vary between kits.


Step 4 Get pedalling!

Your e-bike is now ready to go! Have fun getting to know your e-bike - what's its range? How fast can it go (safely!)? How do the hills feel? See how much money and CO2 you can save by swapping from driving to biking!


The finished product! Perfect for getting to town and back (a hilly 36km round trip).

P.S. A big thank you to Oranje Tractor winery for giving us the bike!

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